在中國人的記憶中，皮爾卡丹是耳熟能詳?shù)拇笃放?，它的?chuàng)始人皮爾·卡丹是時(shí)尚界的傳奇人物，他讓高檔時(shí)裝走進(jìn)老百姓的生活，他的商業(yè)帝國遍布世界各地，他的名字注定無法被遺忘。

French fashion designer Pierre Cardin poses in front of his 1954-1956-1957 fashion creations in his museum called "Past-Present-Future" in Paris November 12, 2014. REUTERS/Charles Platiau

Legendary French fashion designer Pierre Cardin has died at the age of 98, France's Fine Arts Academy announced on Tuesday in a statement on Twitter.

法蘭西藝術(shù)院周二（12月29日）在推特發(fā)布聲明表示，法國傳奇時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師皮爾·卡丹去世，終年98歲。

"The Perpetual Secretary, Laurent Petitgirard, and the members of the Academy of Fine Arts are deeply saddened to announce the death of their colleague Pierre Cardin. He had been elected on 12 February 1992 to the chair of Pierre Dux," the Fine Arts Academy said.

法蘭西藝術(shù)院稱：“法蘭西藝術(shù)院終身秘書長洛朗·珀蒂吉拉爾和藝術(shù)院成員沉痛宣布同事皮爾·卡丹去世的消息。他于1992年2月12日榮任法蘭西藝術(shù)院院士?！?/p>

His creations adorned many stars of the day, among them Elizabeth Taylor, Barbra Streisand, Jeanne Moreau, Jackie Kennedy, Charlotte Rampling, the Beatles and the Rolling Stones.

皮爾·卡丹設(shè)計(jì)的服飾曾為許多當(dāng)紅明星增光添彩，其中包括伊麗莎白·泰勒、芭芭拉·史翠姍、讓娜·莫羅、杰奎琳·肯尼迪、夏洛特·蘭普林、甲殼蟲樂隊(duì)和滾石樂隊(duì)。

Cardin was among the first designers to capitalize on the business side of fashion, becoming a household name thanks to powerful branding.

卡丹是最早投資商業(yè)化時(shí)裝的設(shè)計(jì)師之一，并借助強(qiáng)大的品牌力量成為家喻戶曉的人物。

He also broke with tradition through his futuristic designs -- and by producing landmark unisex and ready-to-wear collections at a time when both were effectively unheard of.

他還曾打破傳統(tǒng)，設(shè)計(jì)出未來主義風(fēng)格時(shí)裝，生產(chǎn)出標(biāo)志性的中性化成衣系列，這兩者在當(dāng)時(shí)都是聞所未聞的。

Cardin was born in 1922 in San Biagio di Callalta, a small town in northeast Italy about 20 miles from Venice. He was born Pietro, but he became known as Pierre after his family relocated to France to escape fascism two years later.

1922年皮爾·卡丹出生于意大利東北部小鎮(zhèn)圣比亞焦-迪卡拉爾塔，距離威尼斯約20英里（32千米）。他出生時(shí)名叫彼得羅，但兩年后為逃避法西斯主義舉家遷到法國后被改名為皮爾。

As a young man, his first steps into fashion coincided with a move to Paris, where he worked on the costumes of Jean Cocteau's film version of "Beauty and the Beast." In 1946, he was hired as a tailor by his subsequent mentor, Christian Dior, who had just opened his couture house in Paris.

年輕的皮爾·卡丹初入時(shí)尚界時(shí)恰逢他搬到巴黎，當(dāng)時(shí)他為讓·科克托拍攝的電影版《美女與野獸》設(shè)計(jì)服飾。1946年，他受雇于后來的導(dǎo)師克里斯汀·迪奧當(dāng)裁縫，迪奧當(dāng)時(shí)剛在巴黎開了自己的高級時(shí)裝屋。

Four years later, at the age of 28, Cardin founded his own eponymous fashion brand, first designing theater costumes, then moving into haute couture in 1953.

四年后，28歲的卡丹以自己的名字創(chuàng)立了時(shí)裝品牌，起先是設(shè)計(jì)戲服，然后在1953年開始進(jìn)軍高級時(shí)裝界。

eponymous : adj. 以……的名字命名的

French designer Pierre Cardin poses with models at the end of his 2009 spring/summer and autumn/winter ready-to-wear fashion collection show in Theoule-sur-Mer, southern France, October 6, 2008. REUTERS/Eric Gaillard

皮爾·卡丹的時(shí)裝創(chuàng)新

His breakout creation was the bubble dress -- so called for the bubble-like shape of the area between the waist and the hemline -- which he designed in 1954. It proved commercially successful worldwide, setting the stage for a string of fashion innovations.

皮爾·卡丹的突破性作品是1954年設(shè)計(jì)的泡泡裙，以腰部和下擺間的區(qū)域形似泡泡而得名。事實(shí)證明，這款泡泡裙在世界范圍內(nèi)創(chuàng)下了商業(yè)佳績，為一系列時(shí)裝創(chuàng)新奠定了基礎(chǔ)。

Hoping to make designer clothing more accessible, he launched his first ready-to-wear collection at the Printemps department store in Paris in 1959, a move so scandalous that it got him expelled from the Chambre Syndicale, the body governing French haute couture (he would be reinstated shortly after, before leaving of his own accord in 1966).

卡丹希望讓設(shè)計(jì)師服裝走進(jìn)千家萬戶，于是1959年他在巴黎的春天百貨推出了自己的第一個(gè)成衣系列。這一令人震驚的舉動(dòng)讓卡丹被法國高級時(shí)裝協(xié)會(huì)除名（不過他很快又重新被協(xié)會(huì)接受，后來他在1966年自己退出了協(xié)會(huì)）。

Displaying an early business nous, Cardin was among the first foreign designers to open shops in Japan, China and Russia. He pioneered modern branding by lending his name to a variety of products -- including perfumes, watches, cigarettes and even frying pans -- raising eyebrows in the traditional fashion world and earning serious money that he invested in real estate.

卡丹早早地展現(xiàn)出了他的商業(yè)頭腦，成為最早在日本、中國和俄羅斯開店的外國設(shè)計(jì)師之一。他開創(chuàng)了現(xiàn)代品牌的先例，將品牌授權(quán)給香水、手表、香煙甚至煎鍋等各種產(chǎn)品。這種做法讓傳統(tǒng)時(shí)裝界側(cè)目，也讓他賺了大錢，開始投資房地產(chǎn)。

nous : n. 理性；精神；心靈；常識

French fashion designer Pierre Cardin, 97, poses during a presentation of a collection made in partnership with Pierre Courtial, a young designer he trained himself at his Studio Pierre Cardin in Paris, France, February 27, 2020. REUTERS/Charles Platiau

Among the designer's property purchases were a Provence castle, once owned by the Marquis de Sade, and the famous Maxim's restaurant in Paris, which he transformed into a global chain with locations in New York, Beijing and elsewhere.

卡丹購入的房產(chǎn)包括曾歸薩德侯爵所有的波城古堡和巴黎著名的馬克西姆餐廳，后來卡丹將其打造成一家全球連鎖餐廳，在紐約、北京和其他地方都有分店。

In the 1960s, Cardin combined his interest for space exploration with a fascination for technical fabrics, by creating the groundbreaking space age unisex collections.

20世紀(jì)60年代，卡丹將他對太空探索的興趣和對高科技面料的癡迷結(jié)合在一起，設(shè)計(jì)出了開創(chuàng)性的中性化太空服系列。

One of his standout garments, a pink dress comprised of molded 3D shapes and made from a fabric of his own creation, Cardine, was famously worn by actress Lauren Bacall in 1968.

卡丹最出色的作品之一是一件用自己獨(dú)創(chuàng)的卡丁布面料制成的3D塑形粉裙，因1968年女演員勞倫·白考爾穿過而名噪一時(shí)。

Both of Cardin's home countries offered him recognition: In 1987, Italy named him a Grand Officer of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic, while in 1991, France made him an Officer of the Legion of Honour. The same year, UNESCO made the designer a goodwill ambassador.

卡丹的兩個(gè)祖國都對他表示了認(rèn)可：1987年，意大利授予他意大利共和國特等功勛稱號；1991年，法國任命他為法國榮譽(yù)軍團(tuán)軍官。同年，聯(lián)合國教科文組織任命他為親善大使。

英文來源：美國有線電視新聞網(wǎng)

翻譯&編輯：丹妮

來源：中國日報(bào)網(wǎng)