上周三，美國時(shí)尚品牌Calvin Klein(以下簡(jiǎn)稱CK)宣布將關(guān)閉其高端成衣時(shí)裝系列業(yè)務(wù)，這意味著CK將不再是時(shí)裝周T臺(tái)的?？汀Ｏ喾?，它將專注于現(xiàn)有的業(yè)務(wù)，包括牛仔和內(nèi)衣等大眾時(shí)尚系列。

“可以確定CK 205W39NYC的業(yè)務(wù)即將關(guān)閉，”該公司告訴法新社。時(shí)尚界評(píng)論稱，這是Calvin Klein一個(gè)時(shí)代的終結(jié)。此前，CK于1月份宣布關(guān)閉了其在紐約曼哈頓麥迪遜大道的CK 205W39NYC品牌旗艦店。去年底，該品牌首席創(chuàng)意官拉夫·西蒙斯(Raf Simons)離職。該公司在1月份表示，計(jì)劃重新打造該品牌，并正在尋找繼任者。據(jù)報(bào)道，CK現(xiàn)在決定完全終止該系列，關(guān)閉其紐約門店，在紐約和意大利米蘭裁員100人。該公司還計(jì)劃關(guān)閉其米蘭辦事處。

一切要從拉夫·西蒙斯出人意料的離職說起。西蒙斯曾經(jīng)在Dior、Jil Sander等品牌擔(dān)任設(shè)計(jì)師。CK母公司PVH于2016年從迪奧(Dior)“引進(jìn)”這位比利時(shí)設(shè)計(jì)師，期待重振該品牌。在來到CK后，西蒙斯將其成衣線品牌名稱從CK Collection更名為CK 205W39NYC。去年，PVHCEO伊曼紐爾·基里科公開表示，“對(duì)在CK 205W39NYC業(yè)務(wù)上的投資沒有回報(bào)感到失望”后不久，西蒙斯選擇了離職，提前終止了原定于今年8月結(jié)束的合同。

一位知情人士向媒體證實(shí)，該品牌仍計(jì)劃為貴賓們?cè)O(shè)計(jì)紅毯禮服，并正在尋找一位設(shè)計(jì)師來負(fù)責(zé)這一領(lǐng)域以及其他類別的設(shè)計(jì)工作。目前CK還沒有決定是否會(huì)在9月的紐約時(shí)裝周上亮相。該消息人士表示，該品牌“并沒有放棄令人向往的產(chǎn)品，而是從另一個(gè)角度看待它”。

西蒙斯于2016年加入該公司，被賦予對(duì)旗下品牌的完全創(chuàng)意控制權(quán)，包括Calvin Klein Collection、Calvin Klein Platinum、Calvin Klein、Calvin Klein牛仔褲、Calvin Klein內(nèi)衣和Calvin Klein Home，目標(biāo)是將它們統(tǒng)一在一個(gè)愿景下。除了改變成衣線品牌名稱，他還與建筑師斯特林·魯比(Sterling Ruby)合作，對(duì)其在紐約曼哈頓麥迪遜大道的旗艦店進(jìn)行了徹底升級(jí)改造。

西蒙斯的設(shè)計(jì)和創(chuàng)意指導(dǎo)使該品牌成為紐約時(shí)裝周最受期待的時(shí)裝秀之一。他發(fā)起了以卡戴珊家族為特色的高調(diào)廣告推廣活動(dòng)。然而，該公司未能實(shí)現(xiàn)老板們所期望的財(cái)務(wù)業(yè)績(jī)。2018年第三季度，稅前利潤(rùn)從去年同期的1.42億美元降至1.21億美元，而收入同比增長(zhǎng)2%，至9.63億美元。

據(jù)外媒報(bào)道，上周三，CK首席執(zhí)行官史蒂夫·謝爾曼表示，仍計(jì)劃創(chuàng)建“夢(mèng)寐以求”的產(chǎn)品，或?qū)⒖己褪褂猛瑯右彩荘VH旗下的時(shí)尚品牌美國品牌Tommy Hilfiger的路線。該品牌以其成功的see-now、buy-now模式進(jìn)軍全球市場(chǎng)，舉辦大型時(shí)裝秀，與吉吉·哈迪德和贊達(dá)亞等明星紅人合作。

Calvin Klein to close luxury collections business American fashion brand to shut New York store and focus on denim and underwear

The American fashion brand Calvin Klein has announced that it is shutting its luxury collections business，meaning Calvin Klein will no longer be a fixture on the fashion week runway.It will instead focus on its existing categories， including denim and underwear.

“I can confirm that the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC business is closing，”the company told AFP. It’s the end of an era at Calvin Klein.The news comes after the brand shuttered its 205W39NYC label in January，following the departure of its chief creative officer，Raf Simons，the prior month.After Simons’ exit，the company said in January that it planned to rebrand the line and was looking for a successor. Its decision to now terminate the collection entirely，as well as close its New York store，will reportedly result in 100 redundancies across New York and Milan in Italy. There are also plans to close its Milan office.

It comes after the unexpected departure of Calvin Klein’s creative director Raf Simons-formerly of Christian Dior and Jil Sander-late last year. PVH brought in Belgian designer from Dior in 2016 to revitalize the brand.The designer，who changed the category’s name from Calvin Klein Collection to Calvin Klein 205W39NYC，cut short his contract which was due to end this August shortly after the CEO of parent company PVH Corp，Emanuel Chirico，said he was“disappointed by the lack of return on our investments in our Calvin Klein 205W39NYC halo business.”

A source familiar with the situation said that the brand still plans to dress VIPs for the red carpet and is looking for one person to take on design responsibilities for this as well as the remaining categories. It has not yet been decided if it will have a presence at New York fashion week in September.The source said that the brand “wasn’t walking away from aspirational product， but looking at it through a different lens”.

Simons，who joined the company in 2016，was given total creative control of its lines，including Calvin Klein Collection，Calvin Klein Platinum，Calvin Klein，Calvin Klein Jeans，Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Home，with the objective to unify them under one vision. In addition to changing the name，he completely refitted the Madison Avenue flagship in New York in a collaboration with the architect Sterling Ruby.

Simons’ designs and creative direction for the house set the agenda for the season’s fashion trends， making the brand one of the most anticipated shows of New York fashion week. He created high-profile advertising campaigns featuring the Kardashian family. It is said to have failed，however，to deliver the financial results bosses were seeking. In the third quarter of 2018，pre-tax earnings fell to $121m，compared with$142m for the same period a year earlier，while revenues increased 2% to $963m over the year.

On Wednesday，reports suggested that Calvin Klein’s CEO，Steve Shiffman，still plans to create“aspirational” products，possibly along the same lines as fellow American brand Tommy Hilfiger， which is also owned by PVH Corp. The company travels the world with its successful see-now， buy-now model， staging large-scale fashion shows that feature collaborations with high-profile celebrities including Gigi Hadid and Zendaya.

南都記者 張沛 綜合整理自 法新社 衛(wèi)報(bào) WWD businessrecorder